Tuesday 23 February 2016

23 February to Las Cabezas de San Juan

Stopped by two security patrols today! Day started fine with a walk through old Utrera, leaving town via a dirt road to the south designated for walkers and cyclists. It was misty as I walked through large open fields. The route then did a few sharp turns to bring me to an irrigation canal lined with concrete. This eventually came to a sudden end with the now stagnant water floating plastic bottles and other detritus. The gpx trail I had loaded on my gps then took me under the adjacent railway line, passed a herd of goats (somewhat incongruous in the arable landscape, they seemed to be feeding on road and canal verges) and across an onion field, a road and then some more fields. It was at this point the first security guard stopped me. Although he spoke no English it was clear he realised I was walking along the Camino de Santiago path. He said I could not go this way and sent me back to the road. At the road while I was taking off some clothes (the mist had now cleared and it was getting warm) he drove up in his white pick up and took pity on me. He said the correct route was along the railway line and pointed out how I could get there. Now comparing the gpx trail with the written route from the internet (from Association Gaditana Jacobea Via Augusta) it was apparent that the gpx route was inconsistent with the path described on the internet which indeed went alongside the railway line at this point. After walking alongside the railway line for a few kilometres I was again stopped by a white pick up (a different one). This time one of the two in the pick up spoke English. He realised I was following the Camino de Santiago route but said the road was private and I was not allowed on it. He asked that I pointed this out to however wrote the instructions but he let me walk the short distance onto the next section of track where the owner did not mind walkers such pilgrims. In fact a more detailed look at the instructions from the Internet showed I should have been on the track on the other side of the railway at the point at which I was stopped. Clearly it is important to look at the instructions very carefully.
I was surprised at the high level of security. The land, which was very flat and seemingly fertile, was mainly in the process of being prepared for planting. From the remnants of  last year's crops it looked like they were growing cotton and some maize. The fields were very large. It was difficult to see what risk required so much security, did they fear someone would steal there yet to be planted crops, or were they fearful of fire or immigrants squatting on their land, or was it an emotional issue, an assertion of the owner's rights to his property. It certainly seemed excessive as the track I was following had the railway fence on one side and on the other either a deep ditch or a high gates and fencing topped with barbed wire protecting empty fields, in addition to the security patrols.
I continued along the route described on the internet but when I came to a sign saying "Prohibito el paso" I decided being stopped twice was enough and took a longer route via tarmacked roads. After 35.3 km I was glad to see the town of Las Cabrezas de San Juan centred on a rare hill and was soon settled in an apartment here (Alojamiento Temporal Las Cabezas).

Path beside irrigation canal

Protecting empty fields

Am I allowed to walk here?


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